Eusebio Leal: The Visionary Behind La Habana

It was early in the summer of 2012 when I set foot in Havana. Old Havana was the most attractive charm to anyone who arrived in the city, more so in our trade as photographers. It was a dream come true for me to be here. But, with the passage of time, I realized that it was not so easy to settle in. Finding a place to live was one of the first challenges upon arrival. In the middle of that search, I asked if there was a person who knew Old Havana well and could help us, and there he was. Eusebio Leal—the greatest historian of the city who knew every street, every corner, and every door on every house. A man with infinite wisdom who never ran short of words when narrating anecdotes and tales of Havana.

© Eliana Aponte. Cuban Historian of the City, Eusebio Leal Spengler on the streets of Old Havana, Cuba, July 10, 2019.

My husband spoke with Eusebio directly and asked if he knew of a house that we could rent. As they rode down the elevator in the six-story La Lonja building, he said, “I have an empty apartment from a project, which is perfect for you. If it were me, I would live there.” And so it was—with his word taken as sacred, the paperwork was done and a rental agreement signed. We would be the first to live amongst Cuban families in the same building restored by the Office of the Historian, and our rent money would go towards the restoration of other projects.

We entered the apartment through a narrow wooden door into a single, large space with 18th-century paintings and a high wooden ceiling. Another door led us to the terrace on the third floor that overlooked Plaza Vieja. The stairs were high and steep, typical of colonial buildings, so whenever Eusebio came to the apartment, he would be out of breath for a few moments, but as soon as he walked past that wooden door, it was like being inside a postcard. He arranged for some specialists to make changes that were necessary in order to inhabit the place—kitchen and bathroom, simple and basic but functional and effective. He constantly made sure that nothing was lacking or forgotten. Eusebio would often walk early in the mornings to check on projects and say Hello, in his hat and gray suit. Alone. He needed no one.

© Ramon Espinosa. Eusebio Leal Spengler holds a picture during an opening with Colombian photographer Eliana Aponte during her exhibition on one year after reestablishing diplomatic relations Cuba and the United States in Old Havana, Cuba, December 17, 2015.

Four years passed and in the middle of a press conference one day, Eusebio cited our case. In his low voice, without much care but always mindful of the details, he explained that the Office of the Historian had worked on a very unique project. “We’ve mixed foreign families with Cuban residents. I wanted to see if it was possible for them to live together in the same building, and we have come to the conclusion that it is possible,” he stated.

Eusebio Leal was a true visionary. Under his command, Havana’s great heritage as a city of regal mansions, museums, castles, has been largely restored. He started working behind this vision from a young age, deeply aware of the architectural significance of each building and street in Havana. Little by little, building a team of architects, engineers, and restoration specialists, Eusebio and his team established the Office of the Historian, ensuring that each project was completed under the watch of Eusebio himself.

© Eliana Aponte. Eusebio Leal Spengler speaks to the local media in Old Havana, Cuba, July 10, 2019.

Eusebio Leal is a big reason behind today’s Havana-inhabitants feeling even more proud of their city. Each time a dignitary visited Cuba, he was in charge of showcasing the restored areas of Old Havana, sharing vivid details and historical anecdotes. There are numerous presidents, royalty, ministers, artists, and state ambassadors who have seen Havana through the eyes of Eusebio, probably the most authentic and authoritative lens with which to experience the city.

© Eliana Aponte. One of Eusebio Leal’s largest and most significant projects was the restoration of The Capitolio

Eusebio Leal has left an enormous legacy. The streets of Havana will miss his leisurely steps and walks. He observed everything, watched every detail, and left nothing to chance. Havana will miss his stories, his young spirit, and his wisdom. Eusebio will remain forever in the hearts of those who were a part of his restored city. Much remains to be done, but surely, he has paved the right path amidst difficult times. La Habana remains Eusebio Leal’s greatest work and what he wanted. 

© Eliana Aponte. Eusebio Leal waves bye to the media in his trademark gray outfit on the streets of Old Havana - his home and office.

Have a good trip Eusebio. You will meet all of those historical figures that always found a place in your anecdotes. We will remember you forever.